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Oldest Indian Masjid: Trail leads to Gujarat
As we find new research on when Hindus in Gujrat reverted to Islam, we find some proofs and evidence that Muslims from Arabia came to Gujrat India during the Prophet’s lifetime. These early reverted Muslims may not be the Memons, as they came to Gujrat somewhere in 15th Century as I described in my original book and added as a different Chapter in this book too.
The above Masjid in the picture has been in Gujarat; some experts suggest it may even date to the time of the Prophet Muhammad SAW. The Juni (OLD) Masjid or Barwada Masjid on the northern edge of the ancient port town of Ghogha, on the Gulf of Khambhat, is still in its original form, albeit in a dilapidated condition. Barwada Masjid in Gujarati translates as outsiders’ or foreigners’ Masjid is not a listed monument and hence is not covered by any conservation plan. No information is available on when it was built and who built it, but some historians contend that it predates the Cheraman Masjid, which was built in AD 629, and the Palaiya Jumma Palli or The Old Jumma Masjid of Kilakaria in Tamil Nadu, which was constructed between AD 628 and 630.
The reason to consider this 15×40 feet structure as the oldest Masjid in India lies in the Muslim custom of offering Salat (Namaz) during the times of Prophet Muhammad SAW. One tradition says that Muslims prayed facing `Baitul Muqaddas’ in Jerusalem, for the first 13 years of Islam from AD 610 to 623. Another tradition limits the period of maintaining the qibla – the direction Muslims face during Salat – towards Jerusalem to the 17 months after the Hijra, the Prophet’s exodus from Mekkah to Medina. In AD 623, while offering Salat in Medina, Prophet SAW had a revelation and declared that Muslims were to face the Kaaba during prayers. From then on, Muslims stopped facing Jerusalem and the qibla was instructed to face the Kaaba.
At the Barwada Masjid in Ghogha, the qibla, indicated by the position of the mehrab (a semi-circular niche in the wall facing where prayers are offered), is towards Jerusalem, an angle nearly 20 degrees north of the qibla towards Mekkah. This reflects the fact that this stone structure must have been erected much before the Prophet’s declaration that the direction to the Kaaba be treated as the qibla. The historical Masjids in Kerala and Tamil Nadu have their qibla towards the Kaaba.
Compass readings taken at the site put the heading of the mehrab from the entrance at about 295°NW. The heading towards the Kaaba, as at a newer Masjid in the same neighborhood is about 275°NW.
A teacher of history, Professor Mehboob Desai has been arguing about the Barwada Masjid’s antiquity ever since he stumbled upon it. “Looking at the flow of information among Arab traders, there is no chance that a Muslim would build a Masjid facing Jerusalem after the Prophet had declared the Kaaba as the qibla, “he told TOI. “This is the oldest Masjid in India, because I have not heard of any other Masjid with its mehrab pointing towards Jerusalem”.
Desai insists that the Masjid at Ghogha may be older than many of Arabia’s ancient Masjids. None of the Masjids built in Medina or in Kerala or Tamil Nadu are in their original shape. While Cheraman Masjid was rebuilt in the 11th century, all other Masjids changed shape in the 20th century.
Built by Arab traders on the then bustling port of Ghogha, this stone structure may have been abandoned by devotees after the qibla was changed. With more than half of its roof gone, the pillars need support, and a board on the Masjid’s doors asks visitors not to pray there because its mehrab doesn’t point towards the Kaaba. It also warns people not to damage the structure because of its heritage value.